Mostar lies along the emerald Neretva River, in the heart of Herzegovina, and is one of the most recognizable cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The historic core is small enough that most landmarks can be explored on foot, and the life of the city still revolves around the Old Bridge and the cobblestone streets of the old bazaar. The bridge you see today was built on the site of the Ottoman original from 1566, which was destroyed during the war in 1993 and reconstructed in 2004 using stone from the same Herzegovinian quarry. The true experience of Mostar begins early in the morning, when the bridge and the bazaar are nearly empty, and ends on one of the terraces overlooking the Neretva — between those two moments, the city reveals a completely different face from the one most day-trippers manage to see.
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