Sarajevo is one of the rare cities where you can cross the border between two civilizations in literally a single step — on Ferhadija Street, the Ottoman bazaar on one side and Austro-Hungarian architecture on the other, with no warning whatsoever. The city of 275,000 inhabitants still bears visible marks of the siege from the nineties: bullet holes in facades, Sarajevo roses in the concrete, museums that do not dramatize but simply document. Bosnian coffee is not a matter of habit here but of ritual — it arrives in a džezva, with a sugar cube and a glass of water, and is taken slowly. If you are looking for a place where history is not only in museums but spills out onto the street at every corner, Sarajevo is exactly that.
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