Between 6 and 7 in the morning the bridge is practically empty — locals pass through, cafes open, the bazaar wakes up. The cobblestones are wet and slippery at that hour, so walk slowly. Head down the steps to Kriva Ćuprija (Crooked Bridge, 1558) — from there you get the classic shot of Stari Most at the level of the Neretva. When you are done, sit on the terrace of Caffe de Alma: burek and Bosnian coffee while the Neretva flows beneath your feet. After 9 a.m. the buses from Dubrovnik and Split start arriving, and everything looks different.
