Head out around 4pm — take a taxi to the Çobo winery in the suburbs (about 8 euros), where the owner leads an hour-long tour in English or Italian. A tasting of five wines made from Albanian varieties — Shesh i Bardhë, Vlosh, Pulës — costs 10 euros and gives a solid introduction to why Berat is on the wine map. Buy a bottle for around 8 euros and head back to the center by 7pm. Sit in the middle of Gorica Bridge and wait for the sun to fall on the western facade of Mangalem — the windows are mostly kept open for ventilation, and at that moment you can see them all at once. Afterward, head down to dinner at the Mangalemi restaurant on the Gorica side, with a terrace facing the lit facade.
